:root{--paper:#f7f3eb;--ink:#203c34;--muted:#61665d;--rust:#a84b30;--line:#d7d6c9;--sage:#e5e9dc;--serif:Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif;--sans:'Avenir Next','Trebuchet MS',sans-serif}
*{box-sizing:border-box}html{scroll-behavior:smooth;scroll-padding-top:24px}body{margin:0;background:var(--paper);color:var(--ink);font:15px/1.65 var(--sans)}a{color:inherit;text-underline-offset:5px}button{font:inherit;cursor:pointer;color:inherit}button,a{-webkit-tap-highlight-color:transparent}a:focus-visible,button:focus-visible,summary:focus-visible{outline:3px solid var(--rust);outline-offset:5px}img{display:block;width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover}h1,h2,h3,p,figure{margin:0}h1,h2,h3{font-family:var(--serif);font-weight:400}h2{font-size:clamp(34px,4.3vw,56px);line-height:1.08;letter-spacing:-2px}h3{font-size:29px;line-height:1.2;letter-spacing:-.7px}em{font-weight:400}p{color:var(--muted)}.wrap{width:min(1240px,calc(100% - 96px));margin-inline:auto}.section{padding-block:86px}.eyebrow{font-size:10px;letter-spacing:1.8px;font-weight:700;margin-bottom:18px;color:var(--rust)}.skip{position:fixed;top:-100px;left:20px;z-index:20;padding:12px;background:var(--ink);color:white}.skip:focus{top:10px}.topline{background:var(--ink);color:#eceee5;text-align:center;font-size:9px;letter-spacing:1.5px;padding:9px 16px}.topline span{padding:0 16px;color:#c3ab72}.topline a{text-decoration:none;letter-spacing:.5px}.site-header{min-height:105px;display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);gap:30px}.brand{text-decoration:none;font-family:var(--serif);font-size:31px;letter-spacing:-1.6px;line-height:1}.brand span{font-style:italic;color:var(--rust)}.brand small{display:block;font:8px var(--sans);letter-spacing:2.2px;margin-top:11px;color:var(--muted)}nav{display:flex;gap:28px;align-items:center}nav a{text-decoration:none;font-size:12px;font-weight:600;white-space:nowrap}nav a:hover,.text-link:hover{color:var(--rust)}.nav-month{border-bottom:1px solid var(--rust);padding-block:7px}.hero{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1.04fr;gap:62px;padding-block:58px 50px;align-items:center}.hero h1{font-size:clamp(56px,6.2vw,91px);letter-spacing:-4px;line-height:1.02;margin-bottom:25px}.hero h1 em{color:var(--rust)}.lede{font-size:16px;max-width:420px;line-height:1.85}.hero-actions{display:flex;gap:23px;align-items:center;margin-top:28px;flex-wrap:wrap}.button{display:inline-flex;align-items:center;justify-content:center;gap:22px;text-decoration:none;border:1px solid var(--ink);border-radius:3px;background:var(--ink);color:#fffdf7;padding:13px 21px;font-size:12px;font-weight:600;transition:background .2s,transform .2s}.button:hover{background:var(--rust);border-color:var(--rust);transform:translateY(-2px)}.text-link{font-size:12px;font-weight:600;text-decoration:underline;text-decoration-thickness:1px}.byline{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:9px;font-size:10px;margin-top:32px}.avatar{height:28px;width:28px;display:grid;place-items:center;background:#e0e5d7;border-radius:50%;font:italic 18px var(--serif);color:var(--ink)}.byline-note{color:#7b7d73}.hero-photo{height:550px;position:relative}.hero-photo img{border-radius:150px 3px 3px 3px;object-position:54% 50%}.hero-photo::after{content:'';position:absolute;inset:0 0 30px;border-radius:150px 3px 3px 3px;background:linear-gradient(0deg,rgba(13,30,23,.5),transparent 45%);pointer-events:none}.hero-photo figcaption{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;font-size:9px;color:var(--muted);height:30px;align-items:end}.hero-photo figcaption span{font-size:8px;letter-spacing:1px}.photo-label{position:absolute;left:28px;bottom:60px;font:47px/.95 var(--serif);color:white;z-index:1;letter-spacing:-2px}.photo-label em{display:block;margin-top:5px}.issue-strip{border-top:1px solid var(--line);border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);display:flex;gap:37px;align-items:center;padding-block:17px}.issue-strip .eyebrow{margin:0;font-size:9px}.issue-strip a{font-size:11px;text-decoration:none}.issue-date{margin-left:auto;font-size:9px;color:var(--muted)}.section-top{display:flex;align-items:end;justify-content:space-between;gap:45px;margin-bottom:37px}.section-top>p{max-width:330px;font-size:13px;line-height:1.9}.month-section{padding-top:58px}.month-section .section-top{margin-bottom:27px}.month-section h2{font-size:38px;letter-spacing:-1.3px}.live-dot{display:inline-block;width:6px;height:6px;background:var(--rust);border-radius:50%;margin-right:6px}.month-controls{display:flex;gap:5px}.month-controls button{background:transparent;border:1px solid var(--line);border-radius:30px;padding:8px 16px;font-size:11px}.month-controls [aria-pressed=true]{background:var(--ink);border-color:var(--ink);color:white}.month-layout{display:grid;grid-template-columns:.8fr 1.2fr;border-block:1px solid var(--line)}.month-editorial{padding:27px 50px 24px 0;position:relative;overflow:hidden}.month-number{position:absolute;right:25px;top:-14px;font:156px var(--serif);color:#e6e7dc;z-index:-1}.month-editorial h3{font-size:30px;max-width:290px;margin-bottom:14px}.month-editorial p{max-width:320px;font-size:12px;margin-bottom:15px}.events{border-left:1px solid var(--line)}.event{display:grid;grid-template-columns:64px 1fr 20px;gap:18px;padding:22px 0 22px 28px;text-decoration:none;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);align-items:center}.event:last-child{border:0}.event:hover{background:#eeeee3}.event-date strong{display:block;font:28px/1 var(--serif);color:var(--rust)}.event-date small{font-size:9px;letter-spacing:1px}.event h3{font-size:21px;letter-spacing:-.4px}.event p{font-size:11px;margin-top:4px}.event .status{display:inline-block;margin-top:5px;color:var(--rust);font-size:9px}.routes-section{background:#e9ecdf}.route-covers{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,1fr);gap:24px}.route-cover{text-decoration:none;background:var(--paper);border:1px solid #d5dac9;border-radius:3px;overflow:hidden;transition:transform .25s}.route-cover:hover{transform:translateY(-6px)}.cover-image{height:270px;position:relative;overflow:hidden}.cover-image img{transition:transform .4s}.route-cover:hover img{transform:scale(1.04)}.cover-image::after{content:'';position:absolute;inset:40% 0 0;background:linear-gradient(transparent,rgba(12,30,21,.45))}.day-badge{position:absolute;top:17px;left:17px;background:var(--paper);height:73px;width:61px;display:flex;flex-direction:column;align-items:center;justify-content:center;font:39px/.9 var(--serif);z-index:1;box-shadow:2px 3px 0 #0001}.day-badge small{font:8px var(--sans);letter-spacing:2px;margin-top:8px}.cover-tag{position:absolute;bottom:16px;left:20px;z-index:1;color:white;font-size:8px;letter-spacing:1.4px}.crop-tram img{object-position:65% center}.crop-palace img{object-position:82% center;transform:scale(1.25)}.route-cover:hover .crop-palace img{transform:scale(1.3)}.cover-copy{padding:24px 22px 17px}.cover-copy h3{font-size:26px;margin-bottom:12px}.cover-copy p{font-size:12px;min-height:61px}.cover-bottom{display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:space-between;border-top:1px solid var(--line);margin-top:23px;padding-top:15px;font-size:9px}.cover-bottom>span:last-child{font-size:23px;line-height:1;color:var(--rust)}.handwritten{display:flex;gap:20px;margin:27px auto 0;max-width:700px;align-items:center}.handwritten>span{font:43px var(--serif);color:var(--rust);transform:rotate(-15deg)}.handwritten p{font-size:12px}.handwritten strong{color:var(--ink)}.notes-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:28px}.note-feature{background:var(--ink);color:var(--paper);padding:35px;border-radius:3px}.note-index{font-size:9px;letter-spacing:1.6px}.note-feature .note-index{color:#d9c494}.note-feature h3{font-size:32px;margin:20px 0}.note-feature p{color:#dde0d4;font-size:13px;line-height:1.9}.transport{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr 1fr;gap:15px;border-block:1px solid #ffffff30;padding-block:17px;margin-block:23px}.transport strong,.transport span{display:block}.transport strong{font-size:12px}.transport span{font-size:10px;color:#cad2c3;margin-top:5px}.note-feature small{display:block;font-size:9px;color:#b9c3b1;margin-top:12px}.notes-stack{border-top:1px solid var(--line)}details{border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);padding:22px 0}summary{cursor:pointer;list-style:none;position:relative;padding-right:35px}summary::-webkit-details-marker{display:none}summary .note-index{color:var(--rust)}summary h3{font-size:23px;line-height:1.3;margin-top:9px}.plus{position:absolute;right:4px;top:18px;font-size:23px;transition:transform .2s}details[open] .plus{transform:rotate(45deg)}.detail-body{font-size:12px;padding-top:13px}.detail-body a{display:inline-block;margin-top:13px;font-size:11px}.hotel-section{background:#eae3d6}.hotel-filters{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:8px}.hotel-filters button{border:1px solid #b9bdad;background:transparent;padding:9px 16px;border-radius:30px;font-size:11px}.hotel-filters button[aria-pressed=true]{background:var(--ink);border-color:var(--ink);color:white}.hotel-filters button span{opacity:.7;margin-left:6px}.filter-description{font-size:12px;min-height:22px;margin:17px 0 23px}.hotel-grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,1fr);gap:14px}.hotel-card{background:var(--paper);padding:23px;border:1px solid #d7d2c5;display:flex;flex-direction:column;align-items:start;border-radius:3px}.hotel-meta{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;width:100%;font-size:8px;letter-spacing:1px;color:var(--rust);margin-bottom:23px}.hotel-card h3{font-size:23px;line-height:1.15;margin-bottom:12px}.hotel-card p{font-size:12px;margin-bottom:20px}.hotel-card .text-link{margin-top:auto;font-size:10px}.affiliate-note{font-size:10px;max-width:830px;margin-top:22px;line-height:1.8}.map-layout{display:grid;grid-template-columns:.7fr 1.3fr;gap:60px;margin-top:52px;border-top:1px solid #c9c6b8;padding-top:40px;align-items:center}.map-layout h3{font-size:35px}.map-layout p{font-size:13px;margin-top:15px}.map-layout small{display:block;margin-top:18px;color:var(--muted);font-size:10px}.map-panel{height:340px;border:1px solid #bcc3ae;display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:center;flex-direction:column;background-color:#e1e8d9;background-image:repeating-linear-gradient(38deg,transparent 0 74px,#fbf8f0 75px 80px,transparent 81px 145px),repeating-linear-gradient(-30deg,transparent 0 95px,#f7f5ed 96px 101px,transparent 102px 172px);text-align:center;overflow:hidden;position:relative;border-radius:3px}.map-panel strong{font:24px var(--serif);background:#e1e8d9e8;padding-inline:10px}.map-panel p{margin:8px 0 20px;background:#e1e8d9e8;padding-inline:10px;font-size:11px}.map-pin{font-size:47px;line-height:1;color:var(--rust);margin-bottom:15px}.map-panel iframe{width:100%;height:100%;border:0;background:white}.about-section{display:grid;grid-template-columns:.8fr 1.2fr;align-items:center;gap:100px}.author-mark{aspect-ratio:1;width:300px;background:#dee4d4;border-radius:50%;display:flex;flex-direction:column;align-items:center;justify-content:center;font:46px/1.1 var(--serif);letter-spacing:-2px;position:relative;transform:rotate(-8deg);justify-self:center}.author-mark::after{content:'';position:absolute;inset:14px;border:1px solid #7c947f;border-radius:50%}.author-mark em{color:var(--rust)}.author-mark span{font:8px var(--sans);letter-spacing:2px;margin-top:23px}.about-section h2{margin-bottom:24px}.about-section p:not(.eyebrow){max-width:510px;font-size:13px;margin-bottom:16px}.about-section .text-link{display:inline-block;margin-top:10px}footer{background:var(--ink);color:#e3e8dc;padding-block:36px 20px}.footer-main{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;align-items:center;gap:20px}.footer-main p{font-size:12px;color:#d2d9c9}.footer-main .brand span{color:#d4a783}.footer-main>a:last-child{font-size:11px}.footer-bottom{display:flex;justify-content:space-between;gap:20px;border-top:1px solid #ffffff24;padding-top:20px;margin-top:30px;font-size:9px;color:#c1cdbb}
/* Separate, shareable route guides. */
.route-header{padding-block:40px 45px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line)}.breadcrumbs{font-size:11px;color:var(--muted);margin-bottom:35px}.route-hero{display:grid;grid-template-columns:1fr .9fr;gap:65px;align-items:center}.route-hero h1{font-size:clamp(46px,5.4vw,76px);line-height:1.06;letter-spacing:-3px;margin:15px 0 23px}.route-hero h1 em{color:var(--rust)}.route-hero .route-cover-photo{height:350px;border-radius:2px 100px 2px 2px}.route-hero .lede{font-size:14px}.route-actions{display:flex;gap:12px;margin-top:24px;flex-wrap:wrap}.button.secondary{background:transparent;color:var(--ink)}.route-facts{display:flex;gap:24px;margin-top:20px;font-size:10px;color:var(--muted)}.route-body{display:grid;grid-template-columns:230px 1fr;gap:60px;padding-block:50px 70px}.day-nav{position:sticky;top:25px;align-self:start}.day-nav .eyebrow{margin-bottom:16px}.day-nav a{display:block;text-decoration:none;font-size:11px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);padding:12px 0}.day-nav a span{color:var(--rust);margin-right:9px}.day-nav .sidebar-note{margin-top:24px;font-size:11px}.day-detail{padding:0 0 42px;margin-bottom:38px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);scroll-margin-top:30px}.day-heading{display:flex;gap:22px;align-items:center;margin-bottom:20px}.day-number{font:53px/1 var(--serif);color:var(--rust)}.day-heading h2{font-size:34px;letter-spacing:-1px}.day-kicker{font-size:9px;letter-spacing:1px;color:var(--muted);margin-top:6px}.stops{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:6px;align-items:center;margin-bottom:25px}.stops span{font-size:10px;background:#e4e9dc;padding:5px 9px}.stops b{font-weight:400;color:#8a9586;font-size:11px}.day-detail>p{font-size:13px;margin-bottom:20px}.day-slots{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(3,1fr);gap:20px;margin-bottom:20px}.day-slot small{font-size:9px;color:var(--rust);letter-spacing:1px}.day-slot p{font-size:12px;margin-top:8px}.day-tip{background:#ebe8db;border-left:2px solid var(--rust);padding:15px 18px;font-size:12px;margin-bottom:20px}.day-links{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:20px}.day-links a{font-size:10px}.route-end{background:#e3e9da;padding:28px}.route-end h3{margin-bottom:10px}.route-end p{font-size:12px;margin-bottom:18px}.other-routes{display:flex;gap:15px;margin-top:20px}.other-routes a{font-size:12px}.print-note{display:none}.empty-state{padding:28px;border:1px solid var(--line);font-size:13px}.map-unload{font-size:10px;border:0;background:transparent;text-decoration:underline;margin-top:9px}
.hero-photo>img{height:calc(100% - 30px)}
.route-header h1{white-space:normal}
@media(min-width:1400px){.hero{gap:85px}.hero-photo{height:590px}}
@media(max-width:1000px){.wrap{width:calc(100% - 56px)}nav{gap:18px}.hero{gap:30px}.hero h1{font-size:66px}.hero-photo{height:490px}.byline-note{display:none}.issue-strip{gap:20px}.issue-date{display:none}.route-covers{gap:15px}.cover-image{height:230px}.cover-copy{padding:21px 17px}.cover-copy h3{font-size:23px}.section-top>p{max-width:290px}.hotel-grid{grid-template-columns:repeat(2,1fr)}.about-section{gap:55px}.route-body{grid-template-columns:175px 1fr;gap:35px}.day-slots{gap:15px}.route-hero{gap:30px}}
@media(max-width:700px){.wrap{width:calc(100% - 36px)}.topline{font-size:8px;letter-spacing:.8px}.topline span{padding-inline:5px}.topline a{font-size:8px}.site-header{min-height:112px;align-items:start;justify-content:start;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:17px;padding-block:18px 14px}.brand{font-size:27px}.brand small{font-size:7px;margin-top:8px}nav{width:100%;gap:22px;overflow:auto;align-items:center}nav a{font-size:10px}.nav-month{margin-left:auto;padding:0}.hero{grid-template-columns:1fr;padding-top:34px;gap:32px}.hero h1{font-size:66px;letter-spacing:-3.8px;line-height:1;max-width:360px}.hero-copy .eyebrow{font-size:8px;letter-spacing:1.2px}.lede{font-size:14px}.hero-actions{gap:18px}.hero-photo{height:385px}.hero-photo img,.hero-photo::after{border-radius:110px 3px 3px 3px}.hero-photo img{height:355px}.photo-label{font-size:40px}.byline{margin-top:23px}.issue-strip{gap:20px;overflow:auto;padding-block:14px}.issue-strip .eyebrow{display:none}.issue-strip a{white-space:nowrap;font-size:10px}.section{padding-block:52px}.section-top{display:block;margin-bottom:27px}.section-top>p{margin-top:20px;max-width:100%;font-size:12px}.eyebrow{font-size:8px;margin-bottom:13px}.month-section .section-top{display:flex;align-items:end;gap:12px}.month-section h2{font-size:29px;letter-spacing:-1px}.month-controls button{font-size:9px;padding:7px 10px}.month-layout{grid-template-columns:1fr}.month-editorial{padding:25px 0}.month-editorial h3{font-size:27px}.month-number{font-size:135px;right:10px;z-index:0;opacity:.6;pointer-events:none}.month-editorial h3,.month-editorial p,.month-editorial a{position:relative;z-index:1}.events{border-left:0;border-top:1px solid var(--line)}.event{padding:20px 0;grid-template-columns:54px 1fr 18px;gap:12px}.event h3{font-size:20px}.route-covers{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:24px}.cover-image{height:260px}.cover-copy h3{font-size:27px}.cover-copy p{min-height:auto}.cover-copy{padding:23px}.cover-bottom{margin-top:20px;font-size:10px}.handwritten{margin-top:23px;gap:13px}.handwritten p{font-size:11px}.notes-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:28px}.note-feature{padding:27px}.note-feature h3{font-size:29px}.transport{gap:10px}.hotel-filters{gap:7px}.hotel-filters button{padding:8px 12px;font-size:10px}.filter-description{font-size:11px}.hotel-grid{grid-template-columns:1fr}.hotel-card{padding:23px}.hotel-meta{margin-bottom:17px}.hotel-card h3{font-size:26px}.hotel-card p{margin-bottom:17px}.map-layout{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:25px;margin-top:35px;padding-top:30px}.map-layout h3{font-size:32px}.map-panel{height:330px}.about-section{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:35px}.author-mark{width:220px;font-size:36px;justify-self:start;margin-left:20px}.about-section h2{font-size:37px}.footer-main{align-items:start;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:17px}.footer-main p{width:100%;order:3;font-size:11px}.footer-bottom{flex-direction:column;gap:12px;margin-top:20px}.route-header{padding-block:27px 35px}.breadcrumbs{font-size:10px;margin-bottom:27px}.route-hero{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:30px}.route-hero h1{font-size:52px;letter-spacing:-2px}.route-hero .route-cover-photo{height:270px}.route-facts{gap:15px;font-size:9px}.route-body{display:block;padding-block:25px 50px}.day-nav{position:static;display:flex;gap:15px;overflow:auto;border-bottom:1px solid var(--line);margin-bottom:33px;padding-bottom:13px}.day-nav .eyebrow,.sidebar-note{display:none}.day-nav a{white-space:nowrap;font-size:10px;border:0;padding:6px 0}.day-number{font-size:43px}.day-heading{gap:16px}.day-heading h2{font-size:28px}.day-slots{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:17px}.day-slot{display:grid;grid-template-columns:70px 1fr;gap:10px}.day-slot p{margin:0}.day-detail{padding-bottom:30px;margin-bottom:30px}.route-actions{gap:9px}.route-actions .button{font-size:11px;padding:11px 14px}}
@media(max-width:700px){.hero h1{font-size:clamp(46px,13vw,58px);letter-spacing:-2.7px}.hero-copy .lede{max-width:400px}}
@media(prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){html{scroll-behavior:auto}*,*::before,*::after{transition:none!important;animation:none!important}}
@media print{.topline,nav,.route-actions,.day-nav,footer,.day-links,.other-routes{display:none!important}.wrap{width:100%}.site-header{min-height:60px}.route-hero{display:block}.route-cover-photo{display:none}.route-body{display:block;padding:20px 0}.day-detail{break-inside:avoid}.day-slots{grid-template-columns:repeat(3,1fr)}body{background:white;font-size:11px}.print-note{display:block;font-size:10px}.route-header{padding-bottom:15px}.route-hero h1{font-size:40px}.day-heading h2{font-size:24px}.route-end{background:none;border:1px solid #ccc}a{text-decoration:none}}